Into Cornwall

Distance 48 km
Moving time 3h 27m
Elevation 931 m
View on Strava
0 km
Waiting to disembark, sitting behind a large group of cyclists. Many of them had been in my hotel yesterday.
Waiting to disembark, sitting behind a large group of cyclists. Many of them had been in my hotel yesterday.

England, at last!

I nearly didn’t make it. With Brexit, and the ever growing divide between the continent and the isles, you now need an Electronic Travel Authorization (or ETA) to enter the United Kingdom.

I had just imagined that I would sidle up to the border post, pay the fee, and get my passport stamped. Alas! You must have an an ETA to enter the country and I nearly forgot to get one.

Thankfully, processing of my application was quick (three days), and I was able to cross the channel without issue.

4 km
Waiting to disembark, sitting behind a large group of cyclists. Many of them had been in my hotel yesterday.
Waiting to disembark, sitting behind a large group of cyclists. Many of them had been in my hotel yesterday.

First contact

Before leaving Plymouth, I decided to explore the town a little.

A friendly chap pointed me to “Rockets & Rascals” a bicycle-cafe where I was able to check my tire pressures, and have my first English lager. It was fine. Nothing to write home about, but at least it wouldn’t get me drunk.

I had another reason for looking for cafe. In my usual excessively prepared fashion, I had neglected to download the map of southern england into my GPS. Usually this wouldn’t be an issue: most countries are nicely broken down into regions and you only need to download the parts that you need. Not so for England, I had to download the entire country! I needed to find a place with Wi-Fi where I could download a couple of gigabytes of road data …

12 km
From a ferry crossing the river Tamar, looking at the Babcock boat yards, tending Royal Navy vessels.
From a ferry crossing the river Tamar, looking at the Babcock boat yards, tending Royal Navy vessels.

Exploring

Somebody who knew Plymouth a little better might have told me not to waste my time exploring too much. The sea-front is quaint, and the port area is typical, but behind that is just a regular uninspiring English city. High street shops, ugly signage, and row houses. There wasn’t much to see.

There was some hint of an urban revival, so maybe things will improve, but today, it was unispiring.

Roscoff is small. A very brittany seaside village with a small town centre, and large suburb of holiday homes. Plymouth is a big industrial town, with a large naval base and all the support facilities that go with it.

It was time to leave.

23 km
Looking down onto Portwrikle from the top of a hill. My first proper glives at the cliffs that line the coast.
Looking down onto Portwrikle from the top of a hill. My first proper glives at the cliffs that line the coast.
Roads in Cornwall are quite narrow, and the tall hedges don't really offer many options when a car comes down the other way.
Roads in Cornwall are quite narrow, and the tall hedges don’t really offer many options when a car comes down the other way.
I was not ready for the constant up-and-down!
I was not ready for the constant up-and-down!
38 km
The hills might be hard, but the villages nestled in between them always make them worthwhile. Exploring the port, in the village of Looe.
The hills might be hard, but the villages nestled in between them always make them worthwhile. Exploring the port, in the village of Looe.

Oh no, hills!

On the trail again, I discovered that I really should look at the map in more detail when I plan trips. I was not ready for the elevation. It was climb after climb. Each climb followed by a steep descent. I was either worried about the state of my brakes, or out of the saddle, straining to climb uphill.

The views were fantastic. PIcutre-perfect green grasslands, the occasional town nestled in a valley along the coastline. Of all the places I’ve cycled, it might rank second, just behind the Swiss Alps, mostly because, somehow, I did less elevation per kilometre whilst crossing the Swiss Alps!

I found a place to camp; on top of a hill. I’m not that smart.

48 km

By the numbers

Ride Started
14:00
Ride Ended
18:42
Distance
48 km
Time Moving
3h 27m
Time Elapsed
4h 42m
Elevation Gained
931 m
Distance so far
839 km
Riding so far
45h 11m
Elevation so far
6096 m