It was cold in the morning when I woke up. Not that it had been hot in the days before, but it had not been cold. The hostel had an option for 11 euro breakfast (a couple of pieces of toast with a coffee). That felt a bit steep, so instead I ordered a coffee and a pastry … and paind 9 euros. I should have gone for the full breakfast.

Leaving the hotel, I was surprised to see a low fog on the lake, and the entire mountainside, covered in sheen of ice. It really was cold.

After some time exploring the lakeside, I started off with a climb. I rode up the Bielersee, and into the countryside. In a moment I was in the sun. I stopped, and was promptly in the shade again. I was racing a cloud!

Turning back, the contrast was striking. Just behind me, in the golden rays of sun, splendid countryside, but beyond that was a foreboding wall of grey and ice. Thankfully, I was cycling into the sun!

The morning was uneventful. The scenery was beautiful until I happened onto the village of Estavayer. A beautifully preserved medieval town, with walls and a castle. I found a bakery, with a little table in the sun, and ordered lunch. The baker commented that she did not expect me to finish everything I had ordered, yet 30 minutes later, I walked back in for desert.

Of all the places I saw on this trip, this may be the one I want to visit the most again. A town where the buildings are so old, that the baker had to constantly step outside to check if she had messages or calls because her phone had no signals indoors because of howthick the basement walls are.

Compared to yesterday, the ground was dryer so the going was easier, even when riding on forest paths. I would pass by a marina and stop to listen to the noise of the wind in the masts, or stop on a beach for a moment to look at the waves. The weather was not good by any means, but it wasn’t raining too much, and the wind was manageable. In the distance, I could see rain pouring down. I hoped that it was not coming this way.

The real challenge would come when I reached the end of the Lac de Neuchatel and had to cross to the Lac Leman.

The climb to the Leman went by without any real difficulties. For the first time in this trip, I felt in shape. My climbing legs were back! It’s a pity they waited until the very last day of the trip for that.

I made my way down to Lausanne, and took a train to Geneva, where a friend was waiting for me. I had a couple of days to recover before heading back home, on a bus.